My favorite hiking trail and one of the most popular in the remote north unit of Theodore Roosevelt National Park, is the Caprock Coulee Trail. This loop trail is a bit over four miles and offers incredible views for the full Dakota badlands experience. A little scrambling, some muddy steps, and avoiding bison and horse poop are just some things that make this trail even more cool.
Why is it called the Caprock Coulee Trail?
When we were hiking the trail, we kept talking about what the name may mean. Was “Coulee” one of the first explorers in the area? Does “caprock” refer to a rock formation? After our hike, we discovered that the terminology is defined by the National Park Service as meaning:
- Caprock: When a more resistant to erosion type of rock is on top of a less resistant rock, they create a caprock formation.
- Coulee: Refers to steep, narrow valleys that are formed by water erosion, yet typically very dry in the summer. 1800s French fur trappers referred to these valleys as “coulée” meaning “flow.”
Wildlife Encounters on the Caprock Coulee Trail
Be on the lookout for bison on this trail and in the greater park. We saw at least four different groupings of bison, whether in large herds across the open prairie, or in small bands of two to three on the buttes.
Safety Protocols for Humans and Animals at Theodore Roosevelt National Park
- Never approach a bison. Bison, horses, and elks can injure and kill people. Leave them be by giving wildlife plenty of space.
- Rattlesnakes also call this area home so keep your eyes and ears open for them!
- Do not surround, crowd, or disrupt an animal’s path, and if they approach you, BACK AWAY.
- Never feed any of the animals, even the cute prairie dogs!
- Always use the rule of thumb the NPS recommends or just stay at minimum 25 yards away (some sources even recommend a 100 yard distance).
Location of the Caprock Coulee Trailhead
Near Waterford City, North Dakota, you’ll find the Theodore Roosevelt National Park entrance and visitor center at 208 Scenic Dr, Watford City, ND 58854. Past the visitor center, continue on the scenic drive for six miles until you hit the Caprock Coulee trailhead.
Below is a Google map of the trailhead for the Caprock Coulee Trail in Grassy Butte, ND 58634. There is a small parking area here with a restroom.
Hiking the Caprock Coulee Trail in North Dakota
Caprock Coulee Trail Stats:
- Time: 2-3 hours
- Distance: 4.3 miles (6.9 km) roundtrip
- Difficulty: Moderately strenuous due to elevation gain and distance
- Cost: National Park fees
Caprock Coulee Trail Map
I always save my trails to my AllTrails account, but the trailhead does offer descriptive, easy-to-follow directions that you could simply take a picture of and reference throughout the hike. It is VERY easy to follow, and highly unlikely that you’d lose your way along this trek.
Which way should I hike the Caprock Coulee Trail?
From the trailhead, go counter clockwise (I.e. begin Caprock Coulee by going on its nature trail, in the direction of the prairie dog town until the trail splits). Going clockwise (crossing the road from the trailhead) is not recommended because there is a ton of incline right from the start for quite a while that way.
Nature Trail vs Loop
You can choose to only hike the nature trail out and back (1.6 miles total) if you’re tight on time or not up for a longer trek. If you are up for the mileage, take a left where the trail forks which will keep you on the trail. Buckhorn Trail is to your right at the fork.
My experience during the beginning of this trail
We originally kept walking onto Buckhorn Trail as we wanted to make it out to the prairie dog town to begin our day. However, as we rounded a bend, we saw a huge bison standing at the top of the butte in the distance. It looked like it was on our trail, and minutes later, other bison joined it. We had no idea if they were on the trail, or if it was possible to continue on while still giving them adequate room. They were not budging, happily grazing during the early hours, so we decided those prairie dogs would be there later and we’d better turn around!
Note: If you want to learn about the environment, use this National Park webpage that corresponds with numbered trail posts along the hike.
Beginning Through a Wooded Section
The hike starts with a nature trail where you walk through a densely wooded area for about a mile up to a quiet, peaceful and remote section of the park. This trail is one of the most traveled in the park, so it’s fairly well-maintained as far as overgrowth. After rainfall, it does get muddy with some deep spots. Hiking boots are definitely your best option!
Grasslands and Badlands
Once out of the woods, you’ll be up high with incredible views of the surrounding prairie grasslands, striking buttes, and Little Missouri River in the distance. These views will captivate you for the rest of the entire hike. Keep an eye out for bison, too!
Grasses of the prairie are an important food source for all the wildlife like buffalo, elk, and horses of the region. You may see a variety of grasses, flowers, cactus, petrified wood, bentonite sediment, and so much more on this trail!
Sights and Stops Along the Trail
River Bend Overlook
The Caprock Coulee Trail reaches its western edge at the 2.5-mile point, where it crosses Scenic Drive. Turning east after crossing the road, the trail soon leads to the River Bend Overlook parking area. While the trail continues beyond the parking area, it’s definitely worth taking a detour to the overlook for a fantastic view.
Note: In summer of 2024, the parking area for River Bend Overlook was under construction to expand the area and allow for more visitors.
There is a small structure at River Bend Overlook that was built by the Civilian Conservation Corps in 1937. It stands on the edge of a butte, providing an incredible view of the Little Missouri River valley below.
Badlands Views Throughout the Trail
The buttes are abundant along much of the trail. Look closely at how the vegetation around the buttes differs. North-facing slopes have juniper trees and other woody plants, while south-facing slopes endure direct sun, which makes them dry, hot surfaces with desert-like plants.
Sediment layers of gray and shades of red color the eroded buttes. Harder layers of rock layered with softer layers creates “differential erosion” which shapes the badlands.
Bentonite Clay
The blue-gray rock that carpets areas on the buttes and hillsides is called bentonite clay. This volcanic ash is common in the area and absorbs a lot of water during heavy rainfalls, causing it to expand and be carried down the slopes.
Petrified Wood
Pale fragments of petrified wood are scattered across the distant hillside, remnants of trees that once thrived in this area 55 million years ago. Buried under layers of sediment, parts of these trees were shielded from decay. Over time, groundwater infused the cells with minerals, gradually solidifying them into stone. Erosion eventually revealed the fossilized wood. These trees, possibly cypress or magnolia, offer further clues to the region’s ancient, swampy environment.
The Best Part of the Caprock Coulee Trail
After River Bend Overlook, the trail begins again at the east end of the parking area. It climbs a grassy slope and then descends steeply through a juniper-filled ravine.
Emerging from the trees, you’ll be rewarded with stunning views of Little Missouri River and its valley. The next 3/4-mile is truly spectacular, winding along a narrow, broken ridge. Steep ravines plunge hundreds of feet below, while the ridge features unique formations, including clay pillar caprocks.
The trail winds along the ridge, offering breathtaking views of the valley and badlands. The trail eventually descends back to the parking area, providing final glimpses of Cedar Canyon and the painted hills.
Key Takeaway
The Caprock Coulee Trail is a 4.1 mile moderate loop hike through the woods, prairie, and badlands of North Dakota. It is truly all the best views and scenery in one hike. I absolutely loved it and recommend saving this trail if you’re heading to Theodore Roosevelt National Park.
